some text I would like to think our great-grandchildren will go on a midnight gondola ride, ribbons of light on the water, only the sound of the oar knocking, and look up into the windows of grand palazzi with frescoed ceilings, huge chandeliers’ armfuls of light. They’ll read about how this enchanted city rose from swampy sandbars and the early inhabitants laid black-and-white mosaics that still stun the viewer. This, times a million other life-altering moments travel can offer. Our landmarks and natural resources are the gifts we’re given to pass on. • Florence's wine portals from the 17th Century Q: Like many popular destinations, your adopted home region of Tuscany is grappling with the effects of over-tourism. How have you seen the influx of travellers change Tuscany in recent years, and what are some ways that governments and travellers can help alleviate this trend? Tuscany must grapple only in high season. The rest of the year, November through April, towns revert to “the way it used to be”. In my adopted town of Cortona, shop owners, restaurants, hotels and other businesses lament the slow weeks of winter, pronouncing them dull. After the winter holidays, most pull down those metal doors for a shutdown, a good time to make repairs and repaint. Everyone looks forward to spring when visitors return like the rondine (swallows). June and July are primo tourist months, while May, September and October are lively but not generally overcrowded – except sometimes in cities. Some people only can travel in prime time, but travellers who can might choose early spring or late fall. Go to Rome, Florence, Venice if you haven’t, but save some of the trip for the road less travelled. I arrived in magnificent Torino and said, “Where is everybody?”. View image of Mayes recently spent nearly two years zigzagging across Italy and especially loved its off-the-beaten-path destinations (Credit: Credit: Ekkachai Pholrojpanya/Getty Images) [When researching the book, you] and I revelled in the cities that often are skipped: Genoa, Catania, Palermo, Trieste, Cagliari, Siracusa, Treviso, Trento.


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